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The ablutions, a religious rite, are performed here in couples—one pouring the water into the other’s hands, that he may wash his face three times, carefully going over the ears, eyes, nose, and mouth. When he, in his turn, pours the water for his companion.

The cheik tells me Moslem custom demands the body must be clean, though the clothes may not be free from dirt. If only the morning “ablutions” were part of our Christian creed, what a difference they would make to the comfort, par exemple, of Naples!

All now lay down their “carpets,” and proceed to prayer. To-day, indeed, many must manage with the bare earth. What an inspiring picture it is—the absolutely unselfconscious absorption of the humble and prostrate Turk before his God! There is, surely, a sense of shame to the true Christian for some of his own brethren in the sight of reverence so natural and so devout.

My enthusiasm, unfortunately, does not extend to the steaming dish of most sustaining breakfast-soup, compounded of flour and vinegar and egg. One or two sips of the tonic are enough a send me to dry bread and a glass of tea—about my tenth since dawn!

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