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To Mr. E. B. d’Auvergne I offer my grateful acknowledgment of the assistance he has rendered me in the compilation of the text, and my thanks are also due to Señor J. Lacoste and Messrs. Hauser y Menet for their permission to reproduce many of the photographs which appear in this volume.
A. F. C.
ILLUSTRATIONS
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LEON SUBJECT PLATE General View of Leon, 1 View from the Cemetery, 2 Cathedral: View from the North, 3 Cathedral: General View, 4 Leon Cathedral, 5 Cathedral: Door of the Cross-Aisle (restored), 6 Leon Cathedral, 7 Lateral Façade of the Cathedral, 8 Longitudinal Section of the Cathedral, 9 Cathedral: Stained Glass Window of the Thirteenth Century, 10 Cathedral: Stained Glass Window of the Fourteenth Century, 11 Plan of the Cathedral, 12 Cathedral: Central Gate of the Principal Porch, 13 Cathedral: Right Gate of the Principal Porch, 14 Cathedral: Detail of the Lower Part of the Principal Portico, 15 ssss1 ssss1 ssss1 ssss1 ssss1 ssss1 Cathedral: Gate of the Coro, 19 Cathedral: Door of the Chapel of St. Andrew, 20 Cathedral: Painted Walls, 21 Cathedral: Statue of Our Lady La Blanca in the Principal Porch, 22 Cathedral: A Sepulchre, 23 Cathedral: Sepulchre of Don Ordoño II., 24 Cathedral: Sepulchre of Martin, First Bishop of Leon, 25 Cathedral: Detail of the Door of the Chapel of St. Andrew, 26 Cathedral: The Cloisters. Our Lady Del Foro and the Offerings of the Kings, 27 Cathedral: Spandril of Central Gate. The Last Judgment, 28 Cathedral: Spandril of Central Gate. The Last Judgment, 29 Cathedral: Detail of the Right Gate, 30 Cathedral: Detail of the Gate of the Chapel of St. Andrés, 31 Cathedral: Various Statues from the Cross Aisle, 32 Cathedral: Detail of the Right-hand Portico, 33 Cathedral: The Back of the Choir, 34 Cathedral: The Choir Stalls, 35 Cathedral: The Choir Stalls, 36 Cathedral: Detail of the Choir, 37 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. The Guardian Angel of Paradise, and the Archangel St. Michael, 38 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. Noah, Adam and Eve, 39 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. The Archangel Gabriel and Abraham, 40 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. Isaac and Jacob, 41 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. Esau, 42 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. Samson, 43 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. St. Mathias and St. Mark, 44 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. St. Luke and St. Bartholomew, 45 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. St. Andrew and St. Peter, 46 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. Santiago Alfeo and St. Philip, 47 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. St. John the Evangelist and Santiago, 48 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. Saint Mary Magdalene and Santo Domingo, 49 Cathedral: In the Choir. St. Nicodemus and Valour, 50 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. St. Martha and St. Lucy, 51 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. St. Francis and St. Catherine, 52 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. St. Froylan and St. Nicholas, 53 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. San Vitorino and San Martin, 54 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. Santa Cristina and Santa Elena, 55 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. San Gregorio and San Geronimo, 56 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. San Silvestre and San Lupercio, 57 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. San Lorenzo and San Vicente, 58 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. San Celedonio and San Esteban, 59 Cathedral: Choir Stalls. A Saint, 60 Cathedral: Detail of the Choir Stalls, 61 Cathedral: Detail of the Choir Stalls, 62 Cathedral: Statue of the Virgin, 63 Cathedral: Detail of the Cloisters, 64 Cathedral: Bas-reliefs in the Cloisters, 65 Façade of the Collegiate Church of San Isidoro, 66 Gate of Pardon: Collegiate Church of San Isidoro, 67 Collegiate Church of San Isidoro, 68 Principal Gate of the Collegiate Church of San Isidoro, 69 Panteon of the Kings in the Collegiate Church of San Isidoro, 70 Spandril of Gate of Pardon: Collegiate Church of San Isidoro, 71 Fresco of the Panteon of the Kings in the Collegiate Church of San Isidoro. End of Eleventh Century, 72 Sections and Details of the Panteon of San Isidoro, 73 Collegiate Church of San Isidoro: Painting on the Wall of the Panteon of the Kings, 74 Collegiate Church of San Isidoro: Paintings on the Walls of the Panteon of the Kings, 75 Collegiate Church of San Isidoro: Chalice and Paten of Doña Urraca, and Cross, 76 Collegiate Church of San Isidoro: Ivory Cross of King Fernando I. and Sancha his Wife, 77 Collegiate Church of San Isidoro: Relics, containing St. Martin’s Hand, St. John Baptist’s Jaw, one of St. Isidoro’s Fingers, and some of the Virgin’s Hair, 78 Collegiate Church of San Isidoro: Chalice and Crucifix in Filigree Gold, 79 Collegiate Church of San Isidoro: Ivory Coffer, 80 Collegiate Church of San Isidoro: Gothic Crucifix in Gold, 81 San Miguel de Escalada: General View of the Convent, 82 San Miguel de Escalada: Exterior of the Temple and Portico, 83 San Miguel de Escalada: Interior of the Church, 84 San Miguel de Escalada: Interior of the Church, 85 San Miguel de Escalada: Southern Façade, Plan, and Details (Town Hall, Gradefes) 86 San Miguel de Escalada: Longitudinal and Transverse Sections and Details. (Town Hall, Gradefes), 87 Details of San Miguel de Escalada. (Town Hall, Gradefes), 88 San Miguel de Escalada: A Capital in the Church, 89 Our Lady Del Mercado, 90 Our Lady Del Mercado: Barred Window in the Principal Façade, 91 Church of San Pedro de Los Huertos, 92 General View of the Convent of San Marcos, 93 Principal Façade of the Convent of San Marcos, 94 Detail of the Façade of the Convent of San Marcos, 95 Entrance to the Convent of San Marcos, 96 Detail of the Façade of the Convent of San Marcos, 97 Detail of the Façade of the Convent of San Marcos, 98 Detail of the Façade of the Convent of San Marcos, 99 Detail of the Façade of the Convent of San Marcos, 100 Detail of the Façade of the Convent of San Marcos, 101 Sacristy in the Convent of San Marcos, 102 Stalls in the Convent of San Marcos, 103 Church of San Marcos: Detail of the Choir, 104 ssss1 ssss1 ssss1 ssss1 Church of San Marcos: Detail of the Choir Stalls, 107 Church of San Marcos: Detail of the Choir, 108 Provincial Museum of San Marcos: Tray, Crucifix, and Vase, 109 Provincial Museum of San Marcos: Cross of Santiago de Peñalva, 110 Provincial Museum of San Marcos: Christ in the Byzantine Style, and the Virgin in the Gothic Style, 111 Provincial Museum of San Marcos: San Francisco, 112 Don Ordoño II. presenting his Palace to the Virgin, 113 Standard of Alfonso VII., Emperor, now belonging to the Illustrious Families of Leon, 114 Tower of the Ponces, 115 Las Casas Consistoriales, 116 House of the Guzmanes, 117 Bastions of the Ancient Walls, 118 Calle de Santa Ana, 119 Corner of the House of the Guzmanes, 120 View of the Railway Station, 121 General View of Astorga, 122 Mountaineers of the Province, 123 Ivory Casket of the Ninth Century, from San Isidoro at Leon, now in the National Archæological Museum, 124 Two Statues in the Archæological Museum, 125 BURGOS View of Burgos, 126 General View of Burgos, 127 La Plaza Mayor, 128 General View from the Castle, 129 Mansion of the Cid, 130 El Paseo del Espolon, 131 View from the Provincial Museum, 132 A View of Burgos, 133 The Cathedral, 134 Façade of the Cathedral, 135 Cathedral: Puerta de la Pellegeria, 136 Cathedral: View from the Cloisters, 137 Cathedral: Upper Part of the Tower, 138 Cathedral: The Constable’s Chapel, 139 Cathedral: Principal Front, 140 Cathedral: From the Cloisters Garden, 141 Towers of the Cathedral, 142 Cathedral: One of the Spires, 143 Cathedral: Bosses—Detail, Spire Windows—Angle and Crocket of Spire, 144 Cathedral: Interior of Spire—Doorway to Spire, 145 Court of the Cathedral, 146 General Plan of the Cathedral, 147 Burgos Cathedral, 148 Cathedral: View of the Principal Nave and High Altar, 149 Burgos Cathedral, 150 Cathedral: View of the Nave from the Gate of the Pellegeria, 151 Cathedral: Back Part of the High Altar, 152 Cathedral: Choir Stalls, 153 Interior of the Cathedral, 154 Details in the Cathedral, 155 Details in the Cathedral, 156 Details in the Cathedral, 157 Details in the Cathedral, 158 Details in the Cathedral, 159 Details in the Cathedral, 160 Cathedral: Exterior of the Constable’s Chapel, 161 Cathedral: Interior View of the Constable’s Chapel, 162 Cathedral: The Constable’s Chapel, 163 Cathedral: Details of the Constable’s Chapel, 164 Cathedral: Details of the Constable’s Chapel, 165 Cathedral: The Constable’s Chapel from the Altar, 166 Cathedral: Entrance to the Constable’s Chapel, 167 Cathedral: Details of the Constable’s Chapel, 168 Cathedral: Altar-piece on the Epistle Side of the Constable’s Chapel, 169 Cathedral: Windows of Sacristy, the Constable’s Chapel, 170 Cathedral: Doorway and Window in the Constable’s Chapel, 171 Cathedral: Santa Ana, in the Altar-piece of the Constable’s Chapel, 172 Cathedral: St. Margaret with the Monster at her Feet, in the Altar-piece of the Constable’s Chapel, 173 Cathedral: Details of the Principal Chapel, 174 Cathedral: Details of the Exterior of the Principal Chapel, 175 Cathedral: Exterior of the Principal Chapel, 176 Cathedral: Chapel of St. Anne, 177 Cathedral: Details of the Altar-piece in the Chapel of St. Anne, 178 Cathedral: Chapel of Santa Tecla, 179 Cathedral: Staircase leading to Puerta Alta de la Coroneria, 180 Cathedral: View of the Cloisters, 181 Cathedral: Gate of the Old Sacristy in the Cloisters, 182 Cathedral: The Cloister Gate, 183 183 Cathedral: Puerta Del Sarmental, 184 Cathedral: Gate of Pardon, 185 Cathedral: A Doorway, 186 Cathedral: A Doorway, 187 Cathedral: Porch of the Pellegeria, 188 Cathedral: Puerta Alta de la Coroneria, 189 Cathedral: Puerta Alta de la Coroneria, 190 Cathedral: The Famous Coffer of the Cid, 191 Cathedral: Central Dome in the Cross-aisle, 192 Cathedral: Processional Door in the Cloisters, 193 Cathedral: Entrance to the Cloisters, 194 ssss1 ssss1 ssss1 ssss1 The Lower Cloisters. Eleventh Century, 197 Cathedral: The Cloisters, 198 Cathedral: The Cloisters, 199 Cathedral: The Cloisters, 200 Cathedral: Detail of the Cloisters, 201 Cathedral: Bas-relief in the Lower Cloisters. Eleventh Century, 202 Cathedral: Bas-reliefs in the Lower Cloisters. Eleventh Century, 203 Cathedral: Soffits of Cloister Arches and Ornaments from Doors, 204 San Fernando and Doña Beatriz of Swabia in the Cathedral Cloisters, 205 Cathedral: Longitudinal Section of the Cloisters. Eleventh Century, 206 Cathedral: Details of the Sepulchre of Don Fernando Diez de Fuente-Pelayo, 207 Niches with Tombs in the Cathedral Cloisters, 208 Cathedral: Puerta Del Sarmental, 209 Cathedral: Sepulchre of Don Fernando Diez de Fuente-Pelayo, Abbot of St. Martin, 210 Details of Screens in the Cathedral, 211 Cathedral: El Cristo de Los Huevos, 212 Cathedral: Sepulchre of Archbishop Luis de Acuña, 213 Cathedral: Sepulchre of the Founder of the Cathedral, 214 Cathedral: Our Lady la Mayor, Statue of Silver, 215 Cathedral: Processional Crucifix in Silver Gilt, the Work of Juan de Arfe in 1592, 216 Cathedral: Gold Enamelled Vase with Cover and Antique Medallions, two Silver Gilt Goblets, and Jug, 217 Cathedral: Double-handled Vessel with Cover, the Work of Dom. Urquiza de Madrid, in 1771, 218 Cathedral: Statues of Saints and Ecclesiastics, 219 Cathedral: Details of Balconies, 220 Cathedral: Remains of Altar—Relievo from Portal. Eleventh Century, 221 Cathedral: Compartment of Apsis, 222 Cathedral: Part of the Open Gallery or Triforium, 223 Cathedral: Details of the Choir Stalls, 224 Altar-piece of the Church of San Nicolás, 225 La Cartuja: General View of the Church, 226 La Cartuja: Gate of the Church, 227 La Cartuja: Sepulchre of the Infante Don Alonso, 228 La Cartuja: Interior View of the Church, 229 La Cartuja : Sepulchre of the Infante Don Alonso, 230 La Cartuja: Sepulchre of the Sovereigns John II. and Isabel of Portugal, 231 La Cartuja: Sepulchre of the Sovereigns John II. and Isabel of Portugal, 232 La Cartuja: Statue of San Bruno, 233 La Cartuja: Details of the Sepulchre of the Sovereigns John II. and Isabel of Portugal, 234 La Cartuja: Details of the Sepulchre of the Sovereigns John II. and Isabel of Portugal, 235 La Cartuja: Details of the Sepulchre of the Sovereigns John II. and Isabel of Portugal, 236 La Cartuja de Miraflores: Details of the Choir Stalls, and Stall of the Officiating Priest, 237 La Cartuja de Miraflores: Stalls of the Lay Brothers, 238 La Cartuja de Miraflores: A Side Door, 239 La Cartuja de Miraflores: Detail of the Choir, 240 La Cartuja de Miraflores: Choir Stalls, 241 La Cartuja de Miraflores: Detail of the Choir Stalls, 242 La Cartuja de Miraflores: The Prior’s Stall, 243 La Cartuja: Detail of the Sepulchre of Don Juan II. and his wife, 244 La Cartuja: Sepulchre of the Infante Don Alonso, brother of Isabel I., 245 La Cartuja: Tomb of the Infante, 246 La Cartuja: Compartment of King’s Tomb, 247 La Cartuja: Portions of Cornice, King’s Tomb, 248 La Cartuja: Ornament from the Infante’s Tomb, 249 La Cartuja: King’s Effigy—Infante’s Robe—Infante’s Prie-Dieu Cloth, 250 La Cartuja: Panelled Wall—Alabaster Crown and Tassels, 251 La Cartuja de Miraflores: A Sixteenth-Century Chimneypiece, 252 Cathedral and La Cartuja: Effigies from Tombs, 253 La Cartuja: Ceiling Ornaments—Cathedral: Details from the Constable’s Monument, 254 Convent of Las Huelgas: View of the Temple, 255 Convent of Las Huelgas: Façade of the Monastery, 256 Convent of Las Huelgas: Patio de San Fernando, 257 Convent of Las Huelgas: Entrance to the Church, 258 Convent of Las Huelgas, 259 Church of Las Huelgas, 260 A Sepulchre in the Convent of Las Huelgas, 261 Details of the Exterior of Santa Maria La Real commonly called de Las Huelgas, 262 Cloisters and Sepulchre in the Convent of Las Huelgas, 263 A Sepulchre in the Convent of Las Huelgas, 264 A Sepulchre in the Convent of Las Huelgas, 265