Читать книгу Practical Organ Building онлайн

20 страница из 25

The throat having been formed in the face of the block, about 1 inch from its lower end, bore the foot-hole in the bottom of the block clear into the throat, beginning with a small borer, and enlarging the hole cautiously, as rough and hasty proceedings might split the block at this point, especially in the case of small pipes.

Prepare the cap from a suitable bit of mahogany, oak, or other close-grained wood, and hollow out the back of it with a chisel as shown in d, Fig. 1. Form the flue or wind-way through which the air is to pass to the lip by filing away the edge left at the top of the wedge-shaped hollow, trying your work by placing the cap against the side of the pipe or any other flat surface. The flue must not be wider than 1⁄16 inch at Tenor C, and must be reduced as we ascend the scale until it will hardly admit a slip of thin paper. It will not be so much as ⅛ inch wide even at CC.

Perhaps the stopper has been already prepared of the same size as the block, and has been formed into a knob at top, or turned in the lathe, or, in the case of the larger pipes, fitted with a turned handle glued into a hole bored for its reception. Dress off the angles of the stopper in order to allow room for the soft white leather with which it is covered to fold itself in the corners of the pipe. We generally rasp our stoppers, leaving them rough that the leather may cling to the stopper and not to the pipe. The leather cannot be too thin if it is soft, and if the stopper fits closely. Rub the interior of the top of the pipe with a bit of tallow-candle, and introduce the stopper cautiously. It should slide within the pipe at once easily and with accurate fit, and if your joinery has been good there should be no fear of splitting the pipe or of opening the joints.